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The Achkan Sherwani – Everything You Need to Know

“Achkan” – its sounds so cool but wearing it is even cooler!

In the last decade, men’s ethnic fashion in India has evolved substantially. The unique feature in this paradigm shift is the fact that instead of adapting western styles of clothing, the trend with designers seems to be bent towards the more traditional forms of formal wear.

Around a decade ago, wedding wear or traditional clothing for men was either an embellished kurta or a traditional sherwani. At that point of time, concepts of the Jodhpuri suit or the Angarakha kurta or jackets etc was yet to be introduced! But slowly, these items have come into the periphery of ethnic wear for Indian men.

Traditional Sherwani - AchkanGet Custom Made Achkan & Sherwani

Take for example the achkan kurta, which looks much like the sherwani yet is entirely different! In fact, if observed closely it has a strong resemblance to menswear in Mughal courts. In fact, the achkan has its roots in Central Asia and today it has been adapted as one of the most popular forms of ethnic wear for Indian men.

An achkan, basically, is a knee-length jacket, buttoned down the centre or side. It has long sleeves and a breast pocket in the left side. The buttons run all the way down to the bottom hem from the neck line. Achkans are usually made up of light fabrics which makes them an immensely popular, smart and sleek option of weddings in summer.

 

Achkan in dark shades

Achkan in dark shades goes very well in winter season. Here are few Achkan sherwani that you can consider:

1. Black Embroidered Achkan with Cowl-hem Kurta

Black Embroidered Indo Western Long Jacket with Cowl-hem Kurta

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Here is a black Achkan style sherwani. It has kurta with cowl-detail hemline and tapered trousers paired with ethnic embroidered full-sleeve, long jacket. The Achkan is exquisitely hand and machine embroidered in black thread. The use of sequins highlights the embroidery and adds a dash of glamour. It’s made in Terry Reyon fabric. It’s a piece of Art.

2. Hand Embroidery At its Best

Hand Embroidery At its Best - Achkan for men

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This navy achkan jacket showcases exquisite hand embroidery. Thread work in neutral metallic tones like silver form intricate designs like floral motifs inside geometric shapes. The look thus created is extremely sophisticated.

3. Classy Achkan with embroidered shawl

Classy Black Achkan with embroidered shawl

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This is a classy achkan made in Dupion Silk fabric. This is a plain Achkan paired with a hand embroidery shawl. This is actually a stunning sherwani for someone who wants to look classy, royal and regal at the same time. This can be worn with and without shawl for two different looks.

4. Draped Achkan with Exquisite Embroidery

Draped Achkan with Exquisite Embroidery

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The attractive combination of grape and black has been used in this draped achkan jacket, paired with matching black pants. The embroidery is coupled with sequin work.

5. Classic Plain black Achkan Sherwani

Classic Plain black Achkan Sherwani set with Shiny Black Buttons

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This is a classic plain Achkan in black color with creme pair of choodidar. This goes well very if you want to go sober and look classy. A real masterpiece with grace and elegance of an Achkan.

6. Blending Angrakha with Achkan

Blending Angrakha with Achkan

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In this outfit, the achkan has blended its style with that of its predecessor – the angrakha! The lapel design is unique with dual closure line detail.

7. Wine Toned Fluted Achkan

Wine Toned Fluted Achkan

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Another unique design – dark wine toned fluted achkan – paired with black trousers. Narrow belt detail, statement buttons and brooch add a royal demeanour.

8. Flora Fauna Embroidery

Flora Fauna Embroidery Achkan

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This achkan showcases unique embellished motifs. On a surface of black, motifs inspired from flora and fauna – like flowers, leaves, elephants etc – have been embroidered in silver threads. The achkan is paired with matching black pants.

9. Not In the Grey Zone – Different Style Achkan

Not In the Grey Zone - Different Style Achkan

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The most unique of design language can be seen in this grey and black toned floral embroidered achkan paired with black pants. The dark colors get complemented by the sparsely studded silver sequins.

10. Black Achkan with Gold Embroidery

Black & Gold Achkan with intricate Multiple Hued Floral Embroidery

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Rich velvet Achkan in dark shade for the perfect reception evening look. Unique multi-color floral patch embroidered in resham threads runs across both lapels from one shoulder to the other sleeve. Gold ornate buttons are added. This can be custom made in fabric of your choice.

11. Black Achkan with intricate Embroidery

Black & Gold Achkan with intricate Hued Floral Embroidery

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Here is an achkan in Terry Reyon fabric. This classy achkan boasts ornate collars, slanted button line with gold statement buttons. The narrower lapel showcases intricate embroidery. Similar embroidery is kept at a patch near the waist portion of the wider lapel.

 

Achkan in lighter shades

Achkan comes in many color and styles. Many men with different taste do experiment with achkan in lighter colors and they really look dapper and cool to say the least. Here are few of the Achkans in lighter colors:

12. Quilted Bandgala style Achkan

Quilted Bandgala style Achkan with Mughal patternsView this Achkan

Quilted bandhgala style Achkan jacket with Mughal floral and architectural patterns delicately embroidered with Resham and Zari. The Jacket is paired with a pastel pink kurta that has a sleek embroidered border as an additional adornment and a pair of neutral ivory Pants.

13. Front Open style Achkan in Blush Pink

Front Open style Achkan in Blush PinkView this Achkan | View Achkan Collection

This is a very different style of Achkan as it’s front open which is giving it a very classy yet modern look. The Achkan is paired with a matching monochromatic kurta with an embroidered border in honeycomb patterns and a neutral pair of Ivory pants.

14. Mint Green Floral Embroidered Achkan

Mint Green Floral Embroidered Achkan Sherwani

This is a perfect Achkan if you’re looking for asymmetrical embroidery. It’s a Pastel Aqua Floral Embroidered Sherwani Set with Ivory Kurta & Chooridar. Self-tone floral embroidery used all over with silver metallic Zardozi work on the chest area, collars and sleeves.

15. Off White Achkan

Off White Achkan style with Intricate Gold EmbroideryView this Achkan

This look of sherwani will never go out of fashion. It’s a typical example of traditional sherwani as it is little spread from the bottom and hugging from the chest. The design in inspired from Mughal architecture – complex floral motifs within geometric patterns. It is paired with off white tussar churidar bottoms.

16. Benarasi Achkan

Benarasi Achkan

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This rich aqua gold Benarasi achkan paired with gold toned pants is one-of-a-kind. The rich brocade work makes it royal. Statement buttons add grandeur.

17. Light Beige Embroidered Achkan

Light Beige Embroidered Achkan with Ivory Kurta

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This is Light Beige Embroidered Achkan with Ivory Kurta & Chooridar. Fabric as used is Dupion Silk. Gold and Ivory thread embroidery is used on the Sherwani jacket bottom hemlines and sleeves. Zardozi work collars, statements buttons and ornate patch on the rear side added. This can be custom made in fabric of your choice.

18. Pale Peach Embroidered Achkan

Pale Peach Embroidered Achkan & Chooridar

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Achkan goes very well with choodidar pajama and this is a classy example of the same. This achkan is made in Dupion Silk fabric. It’s self-tone and white thread work creates dense, chinkankari-like look on the Sherwani. Motifs of flowers as well as variegated leaves is used extensively.

19. Quilted Cream Embroidered Achkan

Quilted Cream Embroidered Achkan

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Seen here is a Quilted Cream Embroidered Sherwani Set with Ivory Kurta & Chooridar. Large vertical ethnic motifs in dark gold and self-tone run from the waist-level to hemline. Borders on the sherwani lapels, sleeves and the collar are ornately embroidered using mangaai or paisley motifs.

20. Ivory Embroidered Classic Achkan

Ivory Embroidered Achkan with matching Kurta

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This is a master piece when it comes to Achkan in lighter color as it has embroidery all over and it looks nothing less than specular. It’s an Ivory Embroidered Sherwani Set with matching Kurta & Chooridar. The embroidery is dense and similar motifs are symmetrically placed all over.

Few Trending Achkans on Social Media

The achkan kurta is immensely popular among Indian men today and owing to the outfit’s lightness and simplicity, it can be worn on non-wedding occasions as well. These guys on Social Media have nailed it when it comes to styling their achkan kurtas.

21. Brooches instead of Buttons

Achkan - Punjabi Style - Groomamanpreettttt

The achkan style is primarily simple and straightforward. Enhancing that with a lot of embellishments kills the masculinity of the outfit. But this guy has played it clever. Instead of traditional buttons he has used big ones that resemble brooches. This input adds just a hint of glitz.

22. The Groom in Blue

Groom in Blue achkanprettythingsaround

If you want to wear an achkan on your wedding, you may go for something like this. This bright blue textured achkan looks glamorous yet bears a sense of sophistication.

23. The Royal Beige Brocade

Asymmetric Achkanjdsharma20

This side-buttoned, angarakha style achkan with an uneven hem is as royal and as traditional as one can get. The beige brocade fabric just adds to the glamour quotient of the outfit. The cleverly used red pocket square adds the required touch of color. It’s an example of a well-used accessory.

24. Keeping it Casual

Achkan - Black and Whitelakshyarajshukla

The achkan is a jacket after all! This guy has done just that by pairing a dark colored solid achkan with a white kurta. This layered look frames the physique really well and results in a casual but glamorous style.

25. Going Vintage

achkan kurta with flared Skirtindiangroom

If you can carry it, you might want to drift back to a style of the bygone days. This achkan kurta in light green and beige has been worn over a kurta with a flared hem. If you really want to wear a statement outfit for your wedding, you may go for this kind of a look.

 

26. Achkan in Pastels

Achkan in Pastels - Floral abhisingh_7

Another great outfit for a groomsman is an achkan in a light pastel shade, like this one. It has lightly embroidered floral patterns all over and has been paired well with white trousers and leather footwear, creating an Indo-western look.

27. Fused with Tradition

Maroon achkan

The guy in this blue and maroon achkan look must have a really good designer! Taking traditional cuts and styles like an achkan jacket, a flared kurta and a churidar, this unique look has been created. The solid light blue achkan has a nice dash on self-color embroidery which does not look ‘over the top’. This has been contrast paired with a dark maroon kurta and a black churidar.

28. As Royal As It Can Get

Black achkan with Shawal theleomayank

The achkan was first introduced as an outfit for the royalty and the nobility. So you just can’t go wrong with it if you sport an achkan styled with a royal flavour! This rich dark achkan has been paired with a vintage pearl necklace and a Kashmiri shawl. The look is extremely classy and stately. This can easily be your reception evening look.

29. Punjabi Style Achkan look

Achkan - Punjabi Stylelavish_singhh

A group of fashion historians opine that after the British introduced the concept of well-tailored outfits into the fashion arena of the Indian princely states, some bent towards the achkan and some chose to stick to the sherwani. The northern states like Punjab that has been invaded by the Mughals before and had a history of war with them, went for the achkan. This is a amazingly designed Achkan with great details.

30. Punjabi boys ruling the Achkan look

Designer Achkan KurtaGet Custom Made Achkan & Sherwani

The states which had been friendly with Mughals refrained from including British tailoring concepts in their fashion game and stuck to the sherwani. This may be the historical reason why the achkan and the sherwani co-existed and got popularised together, though in parallel universes. Punjabi boys rocking the Achkan look in Punjabi Wedding.

31. Classy plain Achkan with Embroidered Shawl

Designer Achkan Kurtathe_engineer_photographer

This is an example of classy black Achkan paired with machine embroidered shawl.

 

Celebs and their Love for the Achkan

Bollywood royalty, Chote Nawaab Saif Ali Khan is known for his love for the achkan. He had sported it during his wedding.

32. Chote Nawaab Saif Ali Khan in Achkan

Chote Nawaab Saif Ali Khan's love for Achkan Get Custom Made Achkan & Sherwani

Saif, is often seen in this outfit in other occasions too!

Saif Ali Khan's love for Achkan

33. Anil Kapoor in Achkan

Anil kapoor with Achkan

Anil Kapoor is ageing gracefully if not glamorously! He sports this smart achkan on the ramp. The gold brooch and the black shoes complement the outfit!

34. Arjun kapoor in Achkan

Anil Kapoor’s nephew is not far behind when it comes to the swag!

35. Varun Dhawan in Achkan

Varun Dhawan looks really handsome in this shiny powder blue achkan

Varun Dhawan is one celeb with a good physique and looks really handsome in this shiny powder blue achkan that he wore to the wedding reception of Sonam Kapoor and Anand Ahuja.

36. Ranveer Singh in Achkan

Ranveer Singh was touring Switzerland in this achkanmensxp.com

Just before his wedding with Deepika Padukone, Ranveer Singh was touring Switzerland in this achkan!

 

The Achkan Kurta Today: Styles & Innovations

The achkan kurta may have its forefathers in the ancient Mauryan, Parthian or Central Asian Empires, but today, it has been widely embraced by men both in India and Pakistan. A few years ago, it was first adopted by the royalties of the Sikh, the Maratha and the Rajput communities.

37. Rajputana Style

Rajputana Style Achkan endlesstraveller0106

The achkan was popular wedding wear for them mainly owing to the attire’s strong masculine vibe. The achkan kurta today breathes smartness. It is a well-tailored, well-fitted and an extremely classy and glamorous outfit. Today it is worn by Indian grooms during wedding ceremonies or other formal festive occasions.

38. Derived from the Angarakha

Achkan Kurta - Jhodpuri Stylerajput_sardars | Get Custom Made Achkan & Sherwani

The most popular theory on the origin of the achkan kurta states that it is a derivative of the angarakha kurta. Before the British came to India, the angarakha kurta was the most popular menswear. The closure mechanism of this kind of kurta was always at one side instead of the middle.

There were strings that had to be fastened here which would bring the torso of the outfit in shape. Different versions of the angarakha kurta was popular in various regions across the subcontinent.

39. Parthian Legacy

Red Achkan Sherwani

Images and sculptures of an attire resembling the achkan kurta has been found on rocks in Iran. Ancient paintings of the Parthian Empire also show the same. In India, the earliest iconographic evidence of an achkan-like outfit has been traced to the Kushan Empire which was founded by a Central Asian nomadic tribe called Yeuzhi. The culture of the Yeuzhi Kushans was highly influenced by the Greco Parthian Kindgom. Thus, it may be said that the achkan kurta has been derived from something similar that existed in ancient Parthian culture.

40. Central Asian Roots

Pastel Green Achkan Sherwanidandygroom

Some believe that the achkan kurta has originated in Central Asia. Something resembling an achkan used to be the court apparel among Persian & Turkish nobility. Later on, noblemen and the men of the ruling class during the rule of the Delhi Sultanate and the Mughal Empire wore achkans. In the 18th Century, the achkan was adopted by the Indian aristocracy across cultures. At that time the attire was believed to be a fusion of the Indo-Persian chapkan and chogha with the British frock.

 

What else makes a good achkan kurta?

  • Achkan kurtas are always made up of lighter fabrics which makes them ideal for summer weddings or layered looks.
  • Owing to its brilliant style and cut, achkan kurtas are preferred in deep solid colors. This gives a very masculine and classy vibe. Too many embellishments don’t go with the style.
  • As achkan kurtas come in deep solid and rich fabrics, it turns out to be the best attire for showcasing family heirlooms like a vintage pearl or stone necklace, finger-ring or brooch. Remember, not long ago, the achkan kurta was strictly an attire for men of royalty and nobility. To give the look a more contemporary twist, you may go for nothing but a designer watch.
  • Some achkan kurtas come slightly embellished but that does not meddle with the attire’s classy appeal. Indian embroidery like like gota and badla, Swarovski crystal work, royal zari thread work, semi-precious stone work etc go well with achkans.
  • Achkans originally had a side-opening with string mechanism. This style was called the baghal bandi. But achkans with frontal opening are not uncommon today.
  • It was traditionally worn with a sash. The patka or dora or kamarband was wrapped around the waist to give shape and form to the entire outfit.
  • The achkan kurta is worn with either a dhotior churidar. Worn with tapered trousers or cigarette pants too, they look good.
  • An achkan can be worn like a kurta, buttoned all the way. It can also be carried as a jacket over a kurta by keeping the buttons open.
  • The achkan kurta has counterparts all over the Indian subcontinent. It is known as daurain Nepal and Northeast India, angi in South India and chola or cholu in the Indian Himalayas.
  • Designers are innovating on the achkan style with every passing day. Though traditionally it is an attire for men, women are also flaunting achkan jackets over kurtas and dresses.

The Achkan Vs The Sherwani

The biggest confusion Indian men face today is whether they should wear an achkan or a sherwani at a traditional function. This confusion is enhanced by the fact that both the attires look similar from a distance. But observed closely, an achkan and a sherwani are pretty different from eacg other no matter which point of view you use. Let us find out about the major points of difference between the achkan and the sherwani.

The Achkan Vs The Sherwani

  • The achkan is a knee-length jacket usually made of a light fabric. The sherwani is a long coat, similar to a British frock or Polish zupan.
  • It is also known as baghal bandi as traditionally it always had a side opening, to be fastened with strings. The sherwani always came with a straight frontal opening.
  • Usually tall and well-built men with a good physique look good in a sherwani, owing to its straight cut. In other words they can carry the outfit well. But there is no such rule when it comes to the achkan.
  • Achakans come in lighter fabrics and in solid plain colors with minimal embellishments. On the other hand, sherwanis, which originated as decorative outer-coats for occasions during medieval times, come in rich fabrics like brocades, usually with embellishments such as thread work, sequin work etc.
  • Usually knee length and sherwanis are longer.
  • Sherwanis come is a straight cut while traditional achkans are usually flared from the waist.

 

Final Word – Achkan

We are sure that you are dying to get your hands on an achkan kurta now! If you still haven’t invested in this style, we suggest you slowly collect a few achkans for your wardrobe as this is one style you can sport at any traditional or semi-traditional occasion. You can wear it all throughout the year as it is not too heavy.

It should be mentioned here that at this time, Indians were unaware of the concept of structurally tailored clothing. It was the British who introduced tailoring techniques and concepts of fit and cut, shoulder pads etc in India. This became immensely popular among the men of the royalty, nobility and upper class. With the invention of the camera, it became necessary to appear more put-together in portraits.

Moreover, the combination of heirloom jewellery and clothes tailored in a western way proved to be attractive. The royal tailors thus started incorporating western tailoring ways to create Indian clothing. This resulted in a lot of fusion fashion and the angarakha evolved in a myriad ways, one of which was the achkan kurta.

Minimal embellishments make it even more versatile. In fact, in comes in different kind of cuts and can be paired as jackets too! We have a rich collection of achkans in different kinds of styles and you should definitely check out!

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